Can Natural Ingredients Solve Acne?

Here's an interesting article I wanted to share with you, regarding the continuing study of plant and tea extracts in acne skincare and treatment. Watch for the new term seen in this article "phytomedicines." Enjoy!

Adult acne is an epidemic, with an estimated 17 million adults who are looking for relief. And, boosted by a growing number of people over the age of 40 more interested in overall health and naturals, than solely a quick fix for their skin issues, an equally growing number of acne-fighting skincare products are incorporating traditional phytomedicines—herbs and plants with anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anti-microbial properties, as well as the highly refined actives from those plants like salicylic acid from wintergreen or white willow bark or collagen from yeast, for instance.


More and more, researchers are turning their attention to scientific studies that compare traditional herbal treatments with synthetic chemical ingredients. And as it turns out, in case after case, there is mounting evidence that these botanicals are just as effective in reducing redness, and clearing up acne lesions. Here are some of the most interesting studies we’ve come across recently:

Green Tea Extract

Green tea consumption has skyrocketed due to its antioxidant properties, and by extension, the use of tea extracts as cosmeceuticals in skin care formulations is well on the rise. A recent study in the Archives of Dermatological Research found that polyphenon-60, also known as green tea catechin compound, reduced the levels of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), an acne-inducing factor that produces inflammation, one of the primary causes of acne. When researchers used polyphenon-60 topically on acne patients, they found it suppressed inflammation and that patients had had fewer breakouts and pustules. Another group of researchers studied the effect of green tea’s (-)epigallocatechin-3-gallate (ECGC) and (-)epicathechin-3-gallate (ECG), known as potent photoprotectants and antioxidants. The 2010 study, published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, tested the effects of green tea on 20 moderate-to-mild acne patients. In the course of the six week trial, patients had fewer lesions and the severity of their acne decreased.You can maximize the release of(-)epigallocatechin-3-gallate in your tea, by choosing loose leaves instead of tea bags and by letting the tea steep for at least five minutes.

Licorice Root

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) has been used for centuries to treat inflammatory and viral diseases. The active part of the root contains glycyrrhizin, (a triterpene saponin), at concentrations ranging from 7-10%. It is converted to glycyrrehetic acid (GA) in the body. This herb has been used extensively in Europe as an anti-inflammatory agent, and in Japan as an antiviral agent with success in treating chronic hepatitis. In addition its anti-inflammatory properties, it’s also been proven to inhibit melanogenesis (the production of melanin). One recent study found significant improvement in skin redness after just eight weeks. Licorice root is showing up in more and more skin care brightening formulations, especially when combined with other proven botanical actives like lemon peel, resveratrol and vitamin C for those for scarring and for overall lightening because it does not bleach the skin as does the ingredient hydroquinone, but provides an overall evening of skin tone.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C has been a staple in skin care for many years, but lately, there has been an increased interest in the use of natural antioxidant vitamins to help restore dermal antioxidant activity. Vitamins A,C, E, and B3 have been shown to have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, but to achieve optimal effectiveness, the delivery system (peptide, liposomal) of these vitamins to the skin cells is very important. These vitamins are effective in the treatment of inflammatory dermatoses, acne, and pigmentation disorders and wound healing, but again, the method and types of vitamins or sources are always something to consider. Vitamin C is a natural compound produced in most plants and animals; however, humans lack the enzyme (L-gulono-[alpha]-lactone oxidase) necessary for its production. So, we must obtain vitamin C from dietary sources like citrus fruits and leafy green vegetables. Since it’s water-soluble, Vitamin C is found in the skin. Because L-ascorbic acid is oxidized and becomes yellow when exposed to air, topical formulations are usually esterified to form a more stable product, or one may use the stable forms of the vitamin like the peptides in formulas to make preparations stable and make the formulas impactful. Preparation of topical formulations in the optimal pH (3.5) is also essential for absorption of active vitamin C. When these formulation criteria are met, a topical application is a more effective method for delivering vitamin C to the skin compared to taking the vitamin internally.

White Willow Bark

Salicylic acid (salix) obtained, in this case, from the bark of the willow tree, is a monohydroxybenzoic acid, a type of phenolic acid and a beta hydroxy acid. Colorless, crystalline, and widely used in organic synthesis functioning as a plant hormone. In addition to being an important active metabolite of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) it is probably best known for its use in anti-acne treatments. The salts and esters of salicylic acid are known as salicylates. Salicylic acid (SA) is a phenolic phyto-hormone and is found in plants with roles in plant growth and development, photosynthesis, transpiration, ion uptake and transport. It can also be prepared by the hydrolysis of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid, or methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen) with a strong acid or base.

Salicins have long been extracted and utilized from willow bark for their ability to ease aches and pains and reduce fevers, and as with other beta hydroxy acids, is a key ingredient in many skin care products for the treatment of seborrhoeic dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, calluses, corns, keratosis pilaris and warts. It works as a keratolytic, bacteriocide and comedolytic agent by causing the cells of the epidermis to shed more readily, opening clogged pores and neutralizing the bacteria living within, preventing pores from clogging up again by constricting pore diameter and allowing room for new cell growth. Because of its effect on skin cells, salicylic acid is used in several shampoos used to treat dandruff. And it works by several means—producing its anti-inflammatory effects via suppressing the activity of cyclooxygenase (COX), an enzyme which is responsible for the production of pro-inflammatory mediators such as the prostaglandins and topically, as a beta-hydroxy acid (and unlike alpha-hydroxy acids) salicylic acid is capable of penetrating and breaking-down fats and lipids. That’s packing a lot of punch for one little plant!

Oatmeal

Oatmeal has been used for centuries as a simple, but stunningly powerful soothing agent, relieving and hydrating red, itchy and irritated skin. However, few studies have sought to identify the active phytochemical(s) in oat that mediate this anti-inflammatory activity. One interesting study in the Archives of Dermtalogical Research found that avenanthramides, which are the phenolic compounds found in oats, are the key to oatmeal’s potent anti-inflammatory properties.

From just these ingredients, we begin to see that a rose is not, in fact, just a rose. Like most things, scratch beneath the surface and you will see that botanicals aren’t just stems and leaves, but refined actives; using them at their highest percentages makes them truly potent and rivals of any synthetic ingredient. Luckily, the industry is changing, and fast, because of such increased consumer interest in naturals, but there was a time I would say a natural product could never come close to solving any acne issue, nor any other serious skin problem for that matter. These days though, a plant-based skin care product doesn’t have to mean just infused oils and a loion that sits separating on the shelf. No, natural skin care and clean eating don’t have to mean, “crunchy.” We know that botanicals are complex systems capable of providing us with the kinds of benefits synthetics can’t touch, both for our skin and our overall health.

The studies being done only begin to scratch the surface of the science behind botanical’s role in acne therapy. Phytomedicines show tremendous potential to replace standard chemical therapy in mild to moderate acne cases. And as naturals continue to grow in dollar value, the bigger studies (backed by more research dollars) will follow, not just for acne, but for anti-aging, the biggest money maker of all.
Head over to www.ohsudz.etsy.com to see natural skincare cleansers and makeup. Perfect for
sensitive and acne prone skin types.

Nude Champagne - tinted lip gloss

Nude Champagne is one of my proprietary lip tints. This is a creamy, nude color, that glides over your lips with just enough sparkle and shine to dress up and finish your lips. I often work with a base gloss, and mix three to four (food grade) micas with sparkle and shimmer. The results are absolutely gorgeous!

Sulfur (MSM) used to fight acne

Ever wonder what one of the hidden ingredient are to a truly great acne fighting product? It's the addition of sulfur.

" When applied topically, sulfur causes the skin to dry and peel. Despite how this sounds, it is actually a good thing for your skin if you have acne. Sulfur helps reduce skin oiliness, and prevents pore blockages from forming."(from about.com) Sulfur contains an ingredient called sodium sulfacetamide, and unlike sulfur of the older days, this does not have any type of bad smell.

Sulfur can be found in a variety of skincare products from cleansers, masques, toners, drying agents and hair care products. There are very few side effects from sulfur, but if your skin becomes too red or dry from a product with sulfur, just stop using it for a few days, or apply every other day instead.

Salicylic Acid and how it works as a skin sloughening agent!

As Per Wikipedia; Salicylic acid (from Latin salix, willow tree, from the bark of which the substance used to be obtained) is a monohydroxybenzoic acid, a type of phenolic acid and a beta hydroxy acid. This colorless crystalline organic acid is widely used in organic synthesis and functions as a plant hormone. It is derived from the metabolism of salicin. In addition to being a compound that is chemically similar to but not identical to the active component of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), it is probably best known for its use in anti-acne treatments. The salts and esters of salicylic acid are known as salicylates.

The natural form of Salicylic acid comes in the way of Salix Nigra the latin name, from the bark of the Willow Tree. This is the natural form and also the form that is the least irritating to sensitive skin types.
OhSudz products uses Salix Nigra in all of their acne drying products. This is natures own blend and a natural form of beta hydroxy acid.

Why ph Balance is so important to skin! A great read....

I wanted to share this information with you from a blog I recently read:

"The pH scale measures how acidic or alkaline a product is, compared to pure distilled water (which is pH 7.0). Only wet substances have a measurable pH. The skin's pH is actually the pH on the skins surface from the moisture within the skin, and the "acid mantle" which is part of the protective "barrier" on its surface. Hair for example has no pH.

The acid mantle is a fine film layer, slightly acidic, made up from skin oils, sweat, and dead cells. It is one means the skin uses to protect itself from bacteria, moisture loss, and environmental damage. Pollutants, harmful bacterium, contaminants are normally alkaline in nature, so a slightly acid skin surface helps fight off these harmful elements and prevent them from entering into, and damaging the skin. Maintaining the acid mantle is recommended for good skin health. When the acid mantle is damaged it takes approximately 14-17 hours to repair itself (assuming no other damaging products are applied to it).

A damaged acid mantle leads to a number of skin issues, such as over dry skin, dehydration, over oily skin, flaky skin, acne, sensitivity, etc. It would require another long post to detail all this. But incorrect pH products can contribute to acid mantle degradation, and increases in acne-causing bacteria on the skin. (More on this below)

The pH Scale

The pH scale goes from 0-14. This covers most wet substances, and certainly all skincare products.

-Acids have pH values under 7 - they are more acidic then water (acid)
-Alkalis have pH values over 7 - they are more alkaline then water (base)
-If a substance has a pH value of 7 - it is neutral, like water (neither acid nor base)

The difference between each whole-value pH level represents a tenfold change. (For example, a cleanser with a pH of 6 is ten times more alkaline than a cleanser with a pH of 5, and a cleanser with a pH of 7 is 100 times more alkaline then one of 5.) Because of this, only a few units of pH can make a big difference in how your skin reacts to a product.

Some pH examples:

pH 1 = Battery acid
pH 1.5 -2 = gastric (stomach) acid
pH 2 = lemon juice
pH 2.5 = cola soft drinks
pH 3 = vinegar
ph 3.5 = orange juice
pH 4.6-5.5 = healthy skin (and recommended pH range for your cleanser, for best skin health)
pH 5.5 = rainwater (pure water, when exposed to the atmosphere, will take in carbon dioxide, changing its pH)
pH 6.5 = milk
pH 6.5 - 7.4 = healthy saliva
pH 7 = pure distilled water - (This is neutral pH, neither acid nor base)
pH 8.5 = baking soda (damaging to skin's acid mantle)
pH 9 = seawater
pH 9.0-10.0 = hand soap, detergents (very damaging to acid mantle)
pH 10.5 = Milk of Magnesia
pH 11.5 = household ammonia
pH 12.5 = household bleach
pH 13 = lye (sodium hydroxide, or Draino)(Alkaline or Base extreme)

Skin and the Acid Mantle

Newborn baby skin has a neutral pH of 7. Within a few months it adjusts to a more "normal" pH of 4.5 to 5.5, enabling it to be more resistant to bacteria.

Adult skin is normally slightly acidic, a range of 4.5 to 5.5. Different body areas can differ in pH, and disease and acid mantle damage can alter pH. But the preferred range for facial skin pH is 4.5 to 5.5.

Those with skin disease, skin problems, and stressed skin usually have a skin pH over 6.0. Aged, stressed and damaged skin have more difficulty maintaining a correct pH.

As skin pH is elevated closer to pH 7.0, it becomes less and less able to function optimally and to kill bacteria. This allows acne-causing bacteria to multiply rapidly on the skin's surface. (Acne bacteria are found on everyone's skin, even if you never have a pimple in your life.) The damaged skin is unable to fend off the excess bacteria, and they multiply rapidly. Bacteria growth is very slow at pH of 5.5 or less, but a slight shift upward, toward the alkaline levels, causes a marked increase in the reproduction and lifespan of acne-causing bacteria.

So if your skin is at a higher pH (anything over 6, as damaged skin often is) the acne-causing bacteria can multiply much easier and faster -- often faster then your skin can handle. Skin pH is one main contributor to acne.

Skin pH also has an effect on how easily irritated your skin is, how well it ages, and how it deals with product and environmental stress. This is why it is recommended that you cleanse skin with mild, non-irritating products, as close to the skin's natural pH as possible.

Many commercial cleansers are highly alkaline, which also changes the skin's pH to alkaline levels on the skin surface, for a short time. Many alkaline cleansers are in the same pH range as baking soda, and some are nearly as high as ammonia. This is very harsh on the skin, and can lead to increased irritation, acne, moisture loss, skin aging etc. As pimples erupt, the skin is less able to heal itself, or the damage that pimples leave behind.

If a product has a high pH and a considerable percentage of a strong detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, or irritant like peppermint oil or menthol, because of the pH destructive activity on the acid mantle, the detergent can contribute to even more damage then it would if the product pH was closer to 5.5. It literally takes a split second for an alkaline product to degrade the skin barrier enough for an irritant or damaging detergent to penetrate. Some people can handle this better then others, but long term daily use on the skin can contribute to long term issues on all skin types. As skin ages, or the barrier function degrades, it has more difficultly dealing with this type of stress.

Even when the skin re-adjusts to its more normal pH (4.5 to 5.5) - it is already damaged, irritated and stressed. The damage recovery involves longer term healing; 14 to 17 days for acid mantle repair. Continued long-term damage, stress, and mild irritation can prevent the skin from maintaining its best pH level of 4.5 to 5.5. With time, and increased damage, it may tend to stay at the 6 range or higher.

As skin become healthier, its pH values lower, and acne growth also lowers. The skin becomes more "normal" and regulated.

A good cleanser cleans the skin without breaking down the acid mantle, or adding irritants to the skin. It is mild with a 5.5 or lower pH."